Where is this place?
Chile South America Coordinates: 22.9087° S, 68.1997° W Elevation: 2,407 meters / 7,897 feet Why should I go here? You should definitely go here because it's awesome. For years, people kept telling me I had to check out San Pedro, and I was like, "I hate the desert," "I don't want to go anywhere without water," and "What if my canteen runs dry? Then what?" But one day, my football team (and by football, I mean the one actually played with feet, hence the name) had a game in Calama. Now, everyone knows you don't really go to Calama, so we decided to stay in San Pedro de Atacama for two nights instead. On the drive there, it was exactly what I expected—nothing to the left, nothing to the right, nothing ahead. About an hour and 15 minutes in, I saw the wreckage of a truck with a broken New Jersey barrier, and I thought, "Oh great, this just keeps getting better." But just as the negativity was leaving my pores, the bus took a sharp left, and we started descending into a valley that looked like it was straight out of a Star Wars movie. Things started getting really interesting, and the closer we got, the more incredible the landscape became. I was in total awe. Could it be possible? Could the desert actually be amazing? Yes, it could. And it was. When we arrived, we started walking around Caracoles Street. It was full of bars, little shops, and restaurants with signs offering "Guanaco Stew." I thought that was kind of cruel since a guanaco is like a llama, and in some places, they're treated like pets. But let's not get into that now, because in Chile, it's common to find animals you'd consider pets—like rabbits, horses, and even llamas—being sold at butcher shops. As we kept exploring, we saw signs from tour companies offering things like "bike rentals," "stargazing tours," "Death Valley," "Moon Valley," and more. We watched the football game and stayed in Calama for our last night... big mistake. I had fallen in love with San Pedro. I went back six months later to watch my team lose again, but San Pedro was still awesome. Flash Questions: Best way to get there? Fly from Santiago, then take either a transfer or a bus from the Calama airport to San Pedro de Atacama. It’s just over an hour (100 km / 60 miles). Will I get mugged? This place is very safe. We give it a solid 4/5. Is it cheap to eat here? Not really, by Chilean standards. We give it a 3/5 for pricing. How about accommodations? Great options all around, from hostels to fancy hotels. We give it a 4/5 for quality. Transportation? Prices are good, especially for bike rentals (about $15 USD for 4 hours) and transfers ($30 USD for a shared ride with 6-7 people, or $120 USD for a private transfer). If you think $120 is steep, remember a gallon of gas in Chile is about $7. Bus tickets are under $10 USD, and buses run almost every hour from 09:00 to 20:00. What if I get sick? Don't get sick here. We give it a 1.5/5 for health facilities. Are the people friendly? Yes, definitely. We give them a 4/5 rating. Special Tips? Altitude sickness is common, so bring your meds just in case. If you didn’t plan ahead and suddenly get a headache, they sell “Coca” candy on the main street. It tastes like an old sweaty gym sock at first, but it works. Plus, they become pretty addictive (in a good way). The City: Nickname: “S.P.A.” Etymology: The name comes from the Spanish tradition of naming things after saints—Saint Peter of Atacama, in this case, reflecting both the Christian influence of the Spanish colonizers and the indigenous heritage of the region. Atacama is said to mean “Head of the region” or “head of the country” in the Kunza language. Plan My Getaway (What to Pack): Seasons: In Chile, it’s all about layers. San Pedro de Atacama has very cold nights and early mornings, then during the day, it gets blazing hot. Think of it like the Chilean saying: “roasted ducks are falling from the sky.” Accessories and Equipment: This place is all about adventure. Whether it's biking, hiking in Moon Valley, or heading up to see the geysers, bring your GoPro if you have one, and any other pro camera gear you can. Just know that no picture will truly capture the sensation of being there. Where Should I Stay?This really depends on your budget. If you want a decent hotel with a great restaurant, I highly recommend Casa de Don Tomas. As a tour guide, I've stayed at the Noi Atacama, at hostels, and in my opinion, the best bang for your buck is definitely Casa de Don Tomas. Transportation: Bikes? Oh yes. Cab? Only private transportation. Uber? Nope. Buses? Yes, and the bus terminal is close to downtown (10-15 minute walk). Trains? No. Planes? To Calama, but don’t stay in Calama. Read my Calama blog. What’s for Lunch?
Bar food and drinks. In general, people don't do dinner in Chile; that's more for tourists. We have “Once” instead, which is like elevenses. You'll find some dinner options in S.P.A., but most of it will be generic—think your average Italian, Asian, and "international" cuisine. What Are the Locals Drinking? Like many places in Chile, it's either beer, wine, or pisco. I've had cocktails in San Pedro, but they’re nothing special. I give it a 3/5. Coffee? Chile isn’t really known for its coffee. You'll find Americanos, espressos, and ristrettos, but nothing amazing. You might have better luck with a fresh blend of tea and herbs. Communications: WhatsApp? Yes. You can easily buy SIM cards on the main street in San Pedro. It’s not really necessary to book anything far in advance since there are tons of tour companies on the main strip, and you can book last minute. But if you're going between November and February, plan ahead. If you decide to head up to S.P.A. last minute, you’ll still find tours available. Cool Discoveries: I stumbled upon a wine tour agency while walking around. I didn’t do the tour because it seemed like a long drive for one winery, but those who did go said it was fascinating to visit a winery in the middle of the desert. Culture: History: San Pedro de Atacama's history is beautiful—it tells the story of the indigenous tribes that crossed and inhabited the desert. You can visit the petroglyph park near Rainbow Valley to dive deeper into this history. Art Scene: You'll find local artists on the main street selling handmade crafts, and there's a guy known for creating art with a magnifying glass. Music Scene: Live music is common on Caracoles, especially from Wednesday to Saturday. It’s usually a solo performer with a guitar, and it pairs perfectly with the food. Adobe restaurant always has someone playing local music in the evenings. Language: There's a significant Bolivian community in San Pedro. You'll hear their language spoken in many shops, and they're proud of their heritage. It's cool to learn about the language used on the old Inca trails that passed through here. In Conclusion… If you’re reading this, you’ve probably already decided to go, and you’re right. Places like “Ojos del Salar,” “La Garganta del Diablo,” and “Laguna Cejar” are absolutely worth it. One of the main draws is the geysers at 4,400 meters/14,000 feet. You’ll see llamas running around, flamingos feeding in the ponds, and you’ll realize just how magical this place is. Tour Guide Services: We offer private tours tailored to your needs. Get in touch with us in the contact section for a quote. Sample Four-Day Itinerary: Day 1: Arrive early and head to S.P.A. Grab a quick lunch, and head to Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley). Then, relax at your accommodation. Day 2: Start super early (around 5:30 or 6:00 a.m.) and take the geyser tour. Afterward, you’ll hit the hot springs. Tour companies usually provide breakfast, and your hotel can pack a lunch box. You’ll be back around 1:30 p.m. In the afternoon, head out to Laguna Cejar for a swim in what we call the Chilean “Dead Waters.” Day 3: If you’re not too tired and can ride a bike, rent one downtown and take a self-guided tour to the Devil's Throat. Remember to bring cash because they only accept cash at the park entrance. Once you arrive at the entrance, park your bike (maybe lock it just in case), and start your hike through what feels like the Chilean Tatooine. If you make it all the way to the top, congrats—you did what I couldn't! But honestly, I was perfectly happy just wandering through the rock formations and narrow passages between the cliffs. Day 4: Plan for an afternoon flight, maybe around 5 p.m. In the morning, get up early, have breakfast, and have your driver take you out to Rainbow Valley and the petroglyph park. Pack a lunch and enjoy it out there in that stunning landscape. Hopefully, it'll be quiet, and you can meditate on what it must have been like for those ancient people who crossed these valleys when they were filled with water, navigating around the lakes and rivers that have long since dried up. I love connecting with history wherever I go, and the petroglyph park is definitely a place to do that. Once again, this place only takes cash, and there’s no technology or phone signal out there. I absolutely love it. My visit would wrap up around noon or maybe 1 p.m., and then I'd head to the airport to check in for my flight back to Santiago.
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AuthorMeet Al Ramirez, the Chilean sommelier, graffiti artist, and tour guide extraordinaire. He's just wrapped up a thrilling journey across Europe and South America, hunting down the coolest spots to share with you. From hidden wine cellars to vibrant street art, Al's adventures bring you the best of both worlds. Stay tuned for his top picks! ArchivesCategories |